Solo Toproping (2006)

This page shows an example of solo toproping. Solo toproping means climbing with a rope that is attached to a top anchor, without a partner belaying you. Instead, you self-belay yourself. There are alternative techniques; this is just one of them.

Disclaimer

Climbing is inherently dangerous. Solo climbing might be more dangerous than climbing with a partner. The information on this page might not be correct or reliable. Acting upon it may lead to death or injury. This is not a guide or tutorial. I take no responsibility for the consequences of using this information.

Equipment

• A reliable top anchor
• A reliable bottom anchor (you can also do without it, but this example uses one)
• A toprope of at least 10 mm in diameter (preferably dynamic)
• A harness with a belay loop
• 3 locking carabiners (preferably DMM Belay Master or similar, not shown here)
• A 60 cm sling with a carabiner
• A belay device (e.g. a Petzl Reverso or an ATC)
• Petzl Mini-Traxion self-jamming pulley
• A weight of a few kilograms (e.g. your backpack or coiled rope)
• An additional ascender (e.g. a Petzl Tibloc), carabiner and sling for handling problem situations on negative walls

Usage

• Attach the sling to the belay loop of your harness. Then attach a carabiner to the sling. A locking carabiner might be a better choice than the non-locking that I have used.
• Attach the Mini-Traxion (red) to the belay loop below the sling. Unlike in the image, you shouldn't use a carabiner with a plastic gate lock; instead, use one with a metallic gate lock.
• Attach the descender (gray) to the belay loop below the Mini-Traxion.

• Attach the other end of the top rope to an anchor by tying a figure-8 knot and attaching the knot to the anchor with a locking carabiner. (Alternatively, you can attach the other end of the top rope to your harness with a figure-8 knot, but this is not as efficient.) Unlike in the image, you shouldn't use a carabiner with a plastic gate lock; instead, use one with a metallic gate lock.

• Attach the Petzl Mini-Traxion to the free-hanging part of the toprope. Do not attach to the bottom-anchored part of the toprope. To attach, you must first check which way to attach it. The device must let you move up, but not down. See the instructions. Open the device by sliding the side plate, and put the rope in between the jamming part and the pulley part, and then close the device by sliding the side plate back.
• Activate the device by pushing the red slider so that it clamps the rope. Double-check that the device is activated by pulling it downward: it should lock.

• Insert the carabiner into the carabiner hole. Remember to lock the gate.

• Attach the weight (e.g. your backpack) to the free end of the rope, so that it pulls the rope tight. The weight should not touch the floor at any time. You should use a better knot than in the image. If you don't have a weight, you will have to pull the slack out yourself for at least the first 10 meters, which will make climbing difficult, as you need a free hand to do it.

• Check that the anchor is solid and that you have attached the Mini-Traxion correctly (and that it is functioning) by pulling the slack of the rope through the Mini-Traxion and putting your body weight on the rope. The device should lock.
• Note that when the device is locked when loaded, you can only release it by unloading it. Therefore, you need to be able to grab the wall. If not, you need an additional ascender to get your weight off the Mini-Traxion. A Petzl Tibloc will do.

• Recheck that your carabiners are locked, that Mini-Traxion is correcly installed and activated, that your anchor is solid, and that you have not forgotten the belay device or sling.
• Start climbing. The weight on the rope should keep it tight, and the Mini-Traxion should glide effortlessly up the rope with you when you move up. If not, stop climbing and check your installation. You might e.g. need a heavier weight or it should be attached higher up the rope.
• If you don't have a DMM Belay Master or similar carabiner, occasionally check that the Mini-Traxion does not cross-load the carabiner.
• When trying this for the first time, climb only 3-4 meters, not to the top.
• With this setup, you cannot move down (or horizontally) without releasing the Mini-Traxion. But if you release it, you are not attached to anything and can freely fall to the ground and die. If you release the Mini-Traxion, you are in effect free soloing, which is probably not what you want nor good for you. If you need to get more rope, you should first attach yourself to an anchor with the sling. Make absolutely sure that you are safely anchored before releasing the Mini-Traxion.
• Thus, this method is meant for climbing relatively easy vertical routes in gyms. There are methods like using a Gri-Gri that allow easier movement, but a Gri-Gri might not catch your fall in all circumstances and is therefore not recommended here, nor by the manufacturer.
• When you are at the top or as high as you want, attach to an anchor with the sling. Check and recheck that you are safely attached to the wall. If you are not, you will fall.
• When you are sure that you are attached, put your weight on the sling.

• Attach the rope below the Mini-Traxion to the belay device: open the carabiner of the belay device, install the rope to the belay device, and reattach it to your harness. Make sure the gate is locked.
• Note that you must attach the belay device to the weighted half of the rope, not the bottom-anchored half. Do not accidentally attach it to the bottom-anchored half of the toprope. If you do, you will fall.
• Check and recheck that the belay device is correctly installed. Take care not to drop the belay device when attaching it: you need it to get down. You might want to tie it up somehow, or keep an extra belay device with you.
• Recheck that you are safely attached to the anchor with the sling.
• Remove the Mini-Traxion: open the slider, remove the carabiner, open the side door and take off the rope. Again, take care not to drop the device. You won't need it to get down however. Attach it to your harness. The Mini-Traxion must not be loaded when trying to remove it. If it is, the teeth will damage the rope.

• Pull out any slack between the bottom anchor and belay device.
• Be careful: this is the dangerous part.
• Take a grip on the wall or the anchor so that you can lift yourself up a bit. You should preferably be able to stand on something. Now your weight should be on the anchor or wall and the sling should not be loaded.
• Tighten the rope and lock yourself to the current position with the belay device (by grabbing the rope below the belay device, as usual).
• You need one hand to keep the belay device locked. With the other hand you should unattach the sling carabiner from the anchor, and attach it to your harness. Do not let go of rope. If you do, you will fall.
• Start descending with the descender.

• When you are on the ground, remove the descender.

Comments

• I have used auto-locking carabiners that have a nylon gate lock. Do not use them; they are not reliable as the nylon lock may break in some situations. The best option for a carabiner might be DMM Belay Master.
• As mentioned above, you might also want to keep an extra belay device with you in case you drop it.
• Some people recommend using backup knots. In practice, tying them to a weighted rope in the middle of a climb is difficult. If you are concerned about safety, you might consider using an extra top rope as a safety line. You would then attach a second device on the safety line and to your harness with a sling of e.g. 120 cm. The second device should be unteethed, since it would be shockloaded, and the teeth would be likely to damage the rope. This setup could then arrest your fall in case the first Mini-Traxion or rope fails. For a bit less security, you could have both devices on the main rope.
• I do not recommend the use of unteethed rope clamps with a straight edge. They may chop the rope or slide on it if you fall hard. Even though you don't notice it at first, some rope clamps compress the core of the rope; I would rather damage the sheath than the core. They will also not work reliably on icy or wet ropes. A Gri-Gri or Tibloc are not safe either. Do not use Tibloc. Concerning belay devices, I don't particularly like the Reverso. Some Trango products could be better, but I have not had the possibility to test them.
• If the rope always stays tight with no slack between you and the bottom anchor, your fall factor will be very small. In my experience, the teeth of the Mini-Traxion have not damaged any ropes, unless you try to unlock it when loaded. In my opinion, the Mini-Traxion is the most reliable option. It's downside is the somewhat restricted movement.

Pack too heavy?

Try this

Links

Mini-Traxion Introduction
Mini-Traxion Instructions
Self-belayed climbing setup

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